|
| Dashboard cutout. |
The wood I use is MDF. The picture above shows a cutout of the dash after I've drawn it to the board. For measurements, see the next picture, which saves you a lot of time & trouble.
To get a secure and solid fit of the dash, which can be dismounted easily, I used a M5 thread through a simple peaces of wood with a butterfly nut at the end. The piece of wood is mounted upright and gets hold of the top and lower edge of the steel stock dash.
|
| Solid nut mounting.. |
Above you see how a bolt can get hold of the dash using these "dug in" nuts which I glued in.
|
The completed dash
|
| The finished dashboard |
|
| Again, the finished dashboard |
You can see the panel mounted in front of the two big meters. It's a slightly bigger than the cut out in the dash behind. To tilt the panel exactly aligned with the meters I used two wig formed pieces of wood on both sides. Note that the meter console itself is still in place. The two blinkers are just red caps lighting up by the stock lamps behind it.
|
| The glove compartment |
Here you can see the hinges which I used. (these hinges are commonly used in a kitchen) Note also that I painted the MDF black, before I glued on the skai imitation leather. To give the fabric a nice soft look and feel, I first glued in layer of 3 mm foam on the dash. You may think that there is a little gap between the stock dash and the custom dash in the upper right corner of the picture. Actually, the dashboard can't make it to the top because it would be bending too much.